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A question about the 1999 '7542' Neifei

1999 '7542' CNNP/Menghai cake

1999 '7542' CNNP/Menghai Neifei

A reader asks a good question about the Neifei of my 1999 '7542' cake: It mentions the name of the China National Native Produce (CNNP) Corporation Yunnan Province Tea Branch. But it doesn't mention the Menghai Tea Factory as producer, as it does on the 1988 '8582' cake I showed earlier this week. So, is it evidence that this cake is fake?

This is a very legitimate concern when it comes to any famous or popular puerh. Imitations and forgeries are numerous, especially when it comes to older puerhs that can sell at high prices.

The paper that accompanies a puerh can be used to spot inconsistencies between a real and a fake puerh, provided the forger made a mistake. But it isn't sufficient evidence to prove that a cake is genuine, since paper (wrapper, neifei and neipiao) are actually easy to imitate.

So, why doesn't this 1999 Neifei mention Menghai Factory as it would have in the 80s? Then, in the 1980s, the CNNP still had a monopoly on all food products in China. Menghai factory belonged to the CNNP, which belonged to the state. The relationship was transparent as there was not conflict of interest.

It started to become more complicated during the transition period to full privatization and market liberalization. Menghai was privatized in 1996, the CNNP lost its selling monopoly in 1999 and private puerh factories emerged around 2002. As an independent firm, Menghai Factory couldn't use the CNNP brand/logo and used the DaYi brand it had developed. However, during these transition years, the CNNP was still an active seller and still had customers who ordered the same products as from the past. So, the CNNP would place an order to the factory who would best do the job. And in 1999, the only factory who had the skill and the facility to produce a good 7542 was Menghai Factory. But then, for obvious branding reasons, the CNNP would request a new Neifei that only emphasized their name.

1988 '8582' Menghai Neifei

1999 '7542' CNNP/Menghai leaves

This is the reason why there were still CNNP wrapped 7542 puerh cakes made in 1999 (along those sold under the Dayi brand). And they were made by Menghai, even though the Neifei didn't indicate it anymore.

The Neifei is therefore consistent with puerh history, but this still doesn't prove anything! Paper is easy to forge, but tea quality isn't. Old 7542s are mostly popular for their great taste and aging potential. So, the best way to check if it's real is to examine the cake and evaluate if it looks like it should look like. And then to taste it and evaluate if it tastes like a 7542 should taste.

1999 '7542' Chaxi

The 7542 recipe emphasizes smaller size leaves (than the 8582, for instance), so it's no mistake that we should see so many buds. The color of these buds is the best indicator to estimate the age of the leaves. They darken very slowly.

This large amount of buds and smaller leaves also impacts the aromas of the tea. It should be on a rather high and fresh note. The taste won't feel as thick and full body as a 8582, but still have a very long aftertaste. And, very important, the taste should feel very clean and comfortable. You should easily feel it's an above average puerh.

1999 '7542' brew

L'infusion sèche

Je connaissais l'infusion à froid (leng pao), mais je découvre aujourd'hui l'expression d'infusion sans eau (gan pao)! C'est un concept qui peut s'avérer très utile dans certaines circonstances.

Je vous sens un peu perdu. Prenons un exemple: Vous recevez un jour de la visite d'une vague connaissance pour laquelle vous n'avez pas d'affinités particulières. En hôte poli, vous proposez de déguster un thé ensemble et lui demandez d'en choisir un. Vous lui montrez votre armoir à thé et, malheur, il désigne le thé le plus ancien et rare de votre collection. En plus, on dirait qu'il s'y connait et sait que ce thé est l'équivalent d'un 1er grand cru classé.

Ce thé, vous avez envie de le partager avec un de vos meilleurs amis ou bien pour marquer un moment fort de votre vie. Mais là, vous avez surtout l'impression qu'on veut abuser de votre générosité. Une demande si déplacée vous met dans l'embarras. Eh bien, pour sortir de cette mauvaise passe, vous pouvez lui répondre: "Avec ce thé, je te propose ce que les Chinois appellent une infusion sèche: je vais te laisser sentir tous les arômes de ses feuilles sèches! Tu verras, ses odeurs sont à la fois boisées et minérales. Un délice! Rien que ces odeurs provoquent déjà une réaction salivaire dans la bouche!"

Ainsi, vous avez tenu parole et gardé ces feuilles pour un jour meilleur!

5 things Oolongs are most afraid of

Spring 2011 Hung Shui Oolong

1. Bad storage.

Tea changes easily and quickly absorbs smells from its surroundings. That's why it needs to be protected from foreign scents that could corrupt its natural fragrances. Don't store tea in the kitchen among all your spices. Keep it in a cool, clean and dark place.

2. Bad quality water.

The surest way to spoil good leaves is to brew them with water so heavy with minerals that they cover all the fine tastes and aromas of the leaves. Choose a light and sweet water with great care.

3. Sleepy water.

That is water that hasn't reached a boil. Such water hasn't opened up and come alive yet. You won't be able to unfurl the leaves properly. The tea will only release a fraction of its aromas. The result will be dull and taste watery.

4. Comparison.

On its own, each tea has something to be enjoyed if someone knows how to brew it. Its defects and quality level isn't easy to evaluate. Side by side comparison, using same brewing standards, is the surest way to judge teas and tell which one is best. Even untrained drinkers can quickly spot the better tea through comparison.

5. Your lack of attention.

Unscented Oolong tea is subtle and underwhelming at first sip. It requires focus and calm to prepare well and enjoy fully. The more effort you put in to learn about tea, the better your brews will taste!

Conclusion: the fact that you are reading this post shows your dedication and love of tea. Next time you brew, reassure your leaves with these words: "Don't be afraid! I will take good care of you."

Mardi gras et jeu d'enfants

Puisqu'on célèbre le carnaval en Europe aujourd'hui, faisons une place pour les enfants et la décoration!
Voici le Chaxi que ma fille a créé pour préparer du Baozhong organique de Wenshan du printemps 2013. Avec ce Chabu long, elle a choisi une petite théière en porcelaine qingbai et des coupes assorties. Elle utilise aussi un bol qu'elle a eu l'occasion de tourner chez un potier!

C'est mignon et touchant de la voir préparer son thé 'comme papa'! Et je suis aussi agréablement surpris par la fraicheur et la finesse de ce Baozhong. Il n'a pas pris une ride et signale l'arrivée prochaine du printemps.

Mon fils participe aussi à ce jeu. Il va nous un Hungshui Oolong jade de Zhushan. Il aime bien disposer les coupes autour de la théière! C'est son idée et je ne veux pas entraver sa créativité.

Il a le geste du père pour délicatement déposer les feuilles au milieu de la théire Xishi en hungni assez dure.

Pour éviter les taches de thé sur ce Chabu long gris design, je lui ai simplement suggéré d'utiliser une petite assiette comme au moment de remplir les coupes de thé.

Eau proche de l'ébullition et première infusion assez longue permettent à mon fils d'obtenir un thé aux arômes fruités bien concentrés. Ce Chaxi enfantin est un festival de couleurs, de goûts et d'odeurs.

Joyeux Mardi Gras!