Friday, April 29, 2011

La saveur des braséros et bouilloires d'autrefois


Le dernier livre (chinois) de Teaparker nous parle des Nilu (braséros) et des bouilloires traditionnelles. Son but est d'examiner par le détail l'influence d'un chauffage de l'eau par le charbon sur le thé.

Au départ, il s'agit d'une alliance Yin/Yang, eau et feu. Comment arriver à harmoniser ces deux éléments opposés pour obtenir une eau bouillante? Car l'eau est la mère du thé, et son chauffage va aussi influer sur sa qualité.

Teaparker décrit les différents styles de braséros et de bouilloires à travers les dynasties. L'esthétique et le symbolisme jouent un grand rôle.

L'eau change de goût selon comment elle est chauffée et avec quel charbon. Le dégustateur de thé contemporain tirera beaucoup d'enseignements et de plaisirs en utilisant chauffant son eau traditionnellement.

Thursday, April 28, 2011

2011 Spring Jade Oolong from Yi Guang Shan

Yi Guang Shan is a small intermediate mountain between Zhu Shan and Shan Lin Shi. The elevation is around 700-800 meters. (That's also where my winter 'honey' Luanze Oolong comes from). After selecting a Jinxuan and a Si Ji Chun Oolong this spring, I thought it would be interesting to add the third popular cultivar for 'fragrant' Taiwan Oolong: Jade (翠玉, Cuìyù) Oolong. Like Jinxuan, this cultivar was developed in Taiwan's Tea Research and Extension Station in the 80s (and known also as Taiwan tea No. 13).
Cultivar: Jade Oolong
Handharvested on April 8, 2011
Rolled Oolong with a very light roasting.

Competition style brewing: 3 grams for 6 minutes in a white porcelain set.

The dry leaves are dark green and not that small in size, which is a sign of high altitude (relatively speaking, because jade Oolong is usually grown in lower elevations). The dry scent is buttery and lightly caramel with hints of fruitiness.

The brew's smell is fresh, oscillating between apple and raw peach.
The leaves show signs of oxidation on the edges. It's not one of those extremely 'green' Oolongs. That's also why I could ask the farmer to dry it a little bit more at low temperature to make it smoother and more tasteful.

What I like most about it (as I was comparing it to other jade Oolongs from Zhu Shan) is its aftertaste "zestiness".

It has this characteristic that high mountain Oolongs have: a kind of sparkle and energy in the mouth that lingers on. This makes the pleasure last longer and is worth paying extra.

After their long rest, the leaves are quite thick this spring.

And the transparency and clarity of the brew is wonderful. The strong yellow color shows that this tea has a good concentration of aromas and that its oxidation level is not too low.

We also see the presence of buds between leaves. That's where the finest aromas come from.

The Chinese love for nature and its green color is the reason why vivid green jade (and celadon) are so popular here. That's the reason why I used this green Cha Xi to brew this tea!
Woodfired celadon bowl by David Louveau. Here the colors remind us more of ancient jade, with orange and brown colors mixed with an earthy green. There are even hints of pink!

Tuesday, April 26, 2011

Rising again with an Easter tea

After a period of intense activity, travel to the US and random worries, it's time to readjust my life and find happiness in the small things I do.

This Easter, I decided on a fresh start. It had to be special and meaningful. First, for Pessach, I wanted to return to the Promised Land. So, I opened a bottle of 'Eden mineral water' from Israel (thank you Ido for bringing this bottle 4 years ago!). I would use this water to brew my tea and remember the great time I had there in 1994.

Second, I also wanted to shed whatever was troubling my mind and soul. So, I also sought to make this an Easter Cha Xi with a Christian touch. I'm not a regular church goer, and maybe it would be easier to have a spiritual experience with a priest?... On the other hand, I like the idea of a direct relationship with Heaven. And if we can use the Cha Xi Mandala to put art into our daily life, why not Christ for Easter!...

I chose a 6 years old Bi Luo Chun from Jiangsu, kept in a pewter tea caddy. It's quite old for a green tea ; some may even be tempted to throw away such leaves. The color of the brew is dark yellow. Dead? Not the least. Even without the typical freshness, the taste has a fine sparkle on the tongue that breathes life into me. (Resurrection!)

But it wasn't just the tea that felt good. I had taken the time to light charcoals in my Nilu and boil the water over it. The fire created a powerful presence next to me! A white butterfly even flew by my window on the 7th floor as I was enjoying my tea cup. Blessed by tea bliss! Eden water for a resurrected 'Jade Snail Spring' tea!

It's as if I could still feel the tea in mouth now...
Thank You for Your Love.

(For the pictures, I have removed the kettle and teapot. They worked perfectly, but their magnificence might have given you the impression I was celebrating a royal wedding!)

Thursday, April 21, 2011

Spring Wenshan Baozhong update

I looked around Pinglin yesterday. The picture says it all: the leafs are still hanging on the trees, in the plantations! The unusually cold winter has delayed the spring harvests. A farmer suggested I come back in 2 weeks. By then, the spring harvest should be ready for selection. I did taste 4 different Jinxuan based Baozhongs made 2 or 3 days ago, but they failed to seduce me.

Grow well, spring Baozhongs!

Wednesday, April 20, 2011

Après le froid et la grisaille,


le soleil fait son apparition.

Le printemps est tardif cette année. Les rayons du soleil ne sont pas encore très chauds. Une brise rafraichit rapidement l'atmosphère du soir. Ce sont de très bonnes conditions pour la pousse du thé...

Et je me sens enfin de nouveau des envies d'Oolong frais de haute montagne. Ici, en l'occurrence, je déguste de mon Li Shan du printemps 2010. Le soleil respendit dans la coupe et illumine mon palais. Quelle finesse sous tant de force concentrée!

"Voici donc les longs jours, lumière, amour, délire !
Voici le printemps ! mars, avril au doux sourire,
Mai fleuri, juin brûlant, tous les beaux mois amis !
Les peupliers, au bord des fleuves endormis,
Se courbent mollement comme de grandes palmes ;
L’oiseau palpite au fond des bois tièdes et calmes ;
Il semble que tout rit, et que les arbres verts
Sont joyeux d’être ensemble et se disent des vers.
Le jour naît couronné d’une aube fraîche et tendre ;
Le soir est plein d’amour ; la nuit, on croit entendre,
A travers l’ombre immense et sous le ciel béni,
Quelque chose d’heureux chanter dans l’infini."
(Hugo)

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

A tea friend goes the extra mile

The trip to Penn State only lasted 5 days. Time was too short to travel to other cities and meet other tea friends in the US. (Sorry!) I only informed Kevin, from Pennsylvania, about this trip. Through his feedback (here, here and by e-mail), I could read that Kevin and I felt similarly about tea. I hoped we could meet, but hadn't heard back from him.

So, it was quite a surprise when Kevin showed up at Penn State's Robeson gallery! He drove 180 miles to meet me! The effort Kevin put to drink 3 cups that day (and a few more cups the next) show his dedication and passion for good tea. This made my roasted spring Oolong Cha Xi even more special.

It's nice to introduce people to Chinese tea culture and see their amazement as they drink their first Oolong. But it's even more satisfying to share a great cup with someone who values and understands tea. Such opportunities are rare, which is why I started this blog to reach other tea enthusiasts. But there's nothing like a face to face tasting!

It was a pleasure meeting you, Kevin. Thank you!

Friday, April 15, 2011

Teaparker visite le Tea Institute de Penn State

J'apprends le thé avec Chih Jung Sien (Teaparker) depuis 8 ans. (Déjà!) Ancien journaliste, il a publié une trentaine de livres sur les thés et les céramiques. Mais ses connaissances ne sont pas seulement académiques. Ce qui le distingue, à mes yeux, c'est d'être un virtuose de l'infusion. Il applique son savoir et son expérience pour réussir le thé mieux que quiconque.

Nous sommes allés ensemble à Penn State pour enseigner l'art du thé aux étudiants et professeurs de cette université. J'ai surtout été son traducteur. Par contre, quand il s'agissait de goûter aux infusions de Teaparker, il n'y avait pas besoin de traduction! Même muni d'une simple cruche et d'une cuillère, il fit un bien meilleur thé rouge que les étudiants avec leur gaiwan! Et pas seulement meilleur, mais excellent! A la fin de notre séjour, Gabrielle, une étudiant de l'institut, nous dit qu'elle sait maintenant quoi répondre quand on lui demande quel est son thé préféré: "N'importe quel thé préparé par Teaparker!"

Teaparker exposa les 3 grands axes de l'étude du thé:
1. la feuille de thé: le cultivar, sa méthode de fabrication, son origine géographique, sa saison...

2. Les accessoires à thé: en quoi sont-ils fait, comment, d'où, par qui...? Quel est leur interaction avec les différents thés?

Par exemple, pour les théières, il demanda à chaque étudiant de faire un croquis d'une théière afin de bien observer ses formes. Mais le plus important chez une théière, c'est sa terre, sa claie. Puis vient la forme et le fabricant en dernier.

3. Les techniques d'infusion qui comprennent la culture et l'histoire du thé. Il s'agit alors de bien combiner la connaissances des feuilles et des accessoires pour optimiser l'infusion. C'est si on réussit bien tout cela qu'on peut alors envisager le thé comme un art appliqué sans limites.

Au terme de notre séjour, Teaparker récompense ces futurs ambassadeurs du thé chinois avec une infusion exceptionnelle d'une brique de puerh cuit 7638, la première brique cuite commerciale de la Chine Populaire. La pureté et la force de ce thé nous touchent, nous relaxent et nous boulversent! Nous sommes comme cloués au sol, apaisés par la douceur qui continue de se propager en nous. Teaparker est heureux de voir que de l'autre côté de la planète, ces jeunes étudiants Américains partagent sa passion du thé. Cet amour ne connait pas de frontières!