Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Expérience multidimensionnelle

 Le thé est un breuvage complexe. J'en suis à ma neuvième année de cours avec Teaparker, mais continue d'en apprendre à chacun de mes cours hebdomadaires. C'est aussi cela qui fait le charme du thé: il n'arrête pas de nous étonner par sa complexité.

Pour simplifier l'étude du thé, il faut pouvoir fixer les variables (oxydation, cultivar, saison, origine, process...) Boire 2/3 thés d'un même terroir, mais de saisons ou d'années ou cultivars ou de modes de conservation différents permet de mieux saisir d'où viennent les nuances, et de quel ordre sont ces nuances.

L'autre enjeu important est de savoir apprécier le niveau de qualité d'un thé par la dégustation plutôt que par le prix. Qu'est-ce qui fait un bon thé? Pureté des saveurs, une bouche qui laisse une impression clean après passage de l'infusion, une gorge qui ne s'est pas serrée lors de la déglutition et une longueur en bouche sucrée, énergique et qui n'en finit pas de stimuler agréablement nos papilles. Voici mon résumé des qualités d'un bon thé.  
Avec cette méthode, on peut ouvrir la porte aux secrets de la plupart des thés, pourvu qu'on ait basé ses connaissances sur des fondements solides. Certains thés (jeunes et frais) sont  plus simples que d'autres à étudier et à apprécier. La complexité grandit avec l'ajout de nouvelles dimensions: torréfaction, âge. Il est donc naturel que les Oolongs torréfiés offrent une grande diversité de saveurs et soient plus complexes à comprendre.

A mi-chemin dans l'oxydation et dans le degré de torréfaction, ils ne sont ni verts ni rouges, ni crus ni cuits. Ils mêlent fraicheur et chaleur, vivacité et moelleux. Bien réussis, ils combinent ces caractéristiques de manière équilibrée. (Mes Hung Shui Oolongs de Shan Lin Shi sont d'excellents exemples).

L'exploration peut continuer. Une fois le bon thé compris, on peut s'aventurer sur le chemin des accessoires et de leur interaction avec la méthode de préparation. A chaque étape, à chaque nouvel ajout d'un accessoire ou d'un changement de geste, l'objectif est simple: augmenter le plaisir. Utilisé à bon escient, chaque accessoire rend l'expérience plus riche de sens.    

Friday, March 9, 2012

How to appreciate a teapot from a tea drinker's perspective


After the basic and potter's perspectives, we examined a collector's perspective. Today, I will show that a tea drinker would evaluate a teapot with a different focus.

Let's start with the obvious difference between the tea drinker and those who look at a teapot as a piece of craftsmanship: the tea drinker is not just looking, exhibiting or storing the teapot, he's using it! The value of the teapot is linked to its usage. A teapot that you don't use is worthless.

So, what do we, tea drinkers, appreciate in a teapot when we make tea? What are the qualities a teapot should display?
1. Conveying the taste and aromas of the leaves the best way possible and improve them compared to other vessels.
2. A certain ease in handling the teapot when brewing tea.
3. A sense of aesthetic beauty that doesn't compromise its functionality, but builds on it.

To summarize, a good teapot will make good tea with great ease and with a sense of beauty.

1. Good brewing.

The most important teapot factor that influences the outcome of the brew is the clay. A chop is easily faked, a shape is also quite easy to imitate, but quality clay makes all the difference.

Before we examine the characteristics of clay, I want to emphasize the concept of clay quality with an analogy to Yan Cha. The quality level for clays bearing the same name  can vary greatly. And, like Yan Cha, top quality clays come from precise locations and are obtained through traditional methods of drying, filtering, resting... Such small extractions result in very pure clay. Then, as with Ban Yan Cha, there's clay made obtained nearby in great quantity and treated with more mechanized methods. Such clay is diluted and only average. And then, as with the countless copies of Yan Cha coming from other provinces, clays are imitated and often obtained through mixing of coloring elements. Such clays are not natural and often create a bad, artificial smell in the teapot.

The difference between good and average clay is often a matter of concentration. Good clay is usually finer and more compact. Between real and faked clay, it's often a matter of how natural the color and texture feels.

How does clay impact the tea?


a. Hard clays absorb fewer flavors. Zhuni, for instance, is known for being very hard, which helps extract all the scents, good and bad, from the leaves. Hard clay is also more difficult to fire : the kiln has to reach a higher temperature. Underfired teapots end up sounding dull as their skin is softer.

b. Retaining heat. Teapots are usually preheated to help them maintain the water brewing at as high a temperature as possible. Good clays retain heat longer and higher. This allows to extract more flavors from the leaves. Zhuni, iron rich clay and Yixing purple clays are good examples. Porcelain, on the other hand, drops quickly in temperature.
Thick walls also retain heat longer.

c. Porous clays help filter some bad flavors.  
Silver and gold are pure, hard metals that retain heat well. They extract flavors with uncompromising sharpness. However, these precious metals lack the filtering capability of clay. The porous texture inside the teapot and the walls under the cover give the tea plenty of surface to interact with. A good clay can purify and add balance, depth to the brew. Softer clays are more porous than hard clays. Yixing zini and di cao qing clays achieve a good balance between hardness and porosity. Duanni, hungni and Chaozhou clays are softer and quite porous.

2. Ease of handling. The 3 major points.

a. The handle
It looks like a ear. Attached to the body of the teapot, its function is to let us hold the teapot without burning our fingers. the top of the handle is often thicker than below, so as to provide some resistance for our fingers. 
And even though it looks like a curved cylinger, the shape is slightly square where our fingers hold it. This improves the grip, making it easier to hold with one hand. We feel very secure that the teapot won't slip if the handle is well designed.
b. the knob

Similarly, the knob helps us to open and close the teapot several times during a brewing without burning our finger. It doesn't just look harmonious with the rest of the pot, but is placed and shaped in such a way that it's easy to hold.

One way to improve the handling of the knob is to slightly increase the distance between the cover and the knob. If it were too close, our fingers would often touch the hot cover and get hurt.

Located on top of the teapot and in the middle of the cover, the knob is the central point of the teapot. Our attention is automatically drawn there. A well centered hole in the knob shows the maker's attention to important details.

c. The spout

The shape of the spout determines the strength, angle of the flow of the tea coming out from the teapot. A smooth flow is easier to control when pouring tea in the cups. It's also more peaceful to watch.

A well shaped spout won't be easily obstructed by tea leaves.

3. Functional beauty

Except for some decorations, the aesthetics of a teapot are not separate from its function of making good tea easily. That's the reason why we can combine the basic and the tea user's perspectives to see the deep beauty of a teapot. They complete each other.

The tea drinker will always try to imagine how a teapot would brew a certain kind of tea. Pairing tea and teapot is a real challenge. Great teas require particularly pure and hard clays to extract all their fine flavors. And average teas are better served by more porous clays that can hide their defects. So, it's not because a teapot doesn't brew one kind of tea well that it's not a good teapot. It could also simply mean that it's not well paired.

So, when you choose a teapot, keep in mind the teas that you drink, so that you can enjoy it as often as possible! And don't hesitate to try different teas in it to find out which tea your teapot handles best.

Wednesday, March 7, 2012

"Le printemps inquiet paraît à l'horizon

Du pauvre mois de mars il ne faut pas médire ;
Bien que le laboureur le craigne justement,
L’univers y renaît ; il est vrai que le vent,
La pluie et le soleil s’y disputent l’empire.
Qu’y faire ? Au temps des fleurs, le monde est un enfant ;
C’est sa première larme et son premier sourire."
(A la mi-carême d'Alfred de Musset)

On annonçait un temps instable, hier. Finalement, c'est à une journée ensoleillée à laquelle j'eus droit. Bien équipé, je file dans les monts de San Hsia pour inspecter les plantations et y saisir l'esprit printanier.

Ce gros roc devient ma montagne de thé. J'y dispose mes accessoires pour un Cha Xi du renouveau. Les feuilles vertes de mon Oolong de très haute montagne, Qi Lai Shan, du printemps 2011 sont à la mesure de ce cadre et de la météo.

Ses arômes me transportent à plus de 2000 mètres de haut!

Avant de tenir ce blog, et surtout avant mes études du thé, je n'arrivais pas à sentir toutes ces subtilités. Avec le vin, cela ne me posait pas de problème ; quelques cours d'oenologie avaient aiguisé ma curiosité avant de venir à Taiwan. Mais le thé est un monde bien plus opaque. Il y a quelques semaines, en buvant un reste ancien, je me rendis compte que ce thé, acheté il y a plus de 10 ans (avant mes études), ne venait pas d'une montagne Taiwanaise, mais d'Asie du Sud Est! Le goût avait une amertume prononcée et sombre, et le profil des arômes est très différent.
 
Coupe qingbai chantante
Mon blog m'a permis d'apprendre comment bien préparer le Oolong et de sélectionner des feuilles qui sont ce qu'elles annoncent. La base de toute qualité est la bonne connaissance du produit, savoir quel thé on a en face de soi. Pour cela, connaitre les standards est la fondation de toute apprentissage. Si la provenance du thé n'est pas claire (cultivar, lieu d'origine, saison, année...) alors on ne peut pas apprécier un thé à sa juste valeur. Quelle caractéristique a un Oolong de haute montagne, un thé vert du début du printemps, un puerh sauvage, un Hung Shui Oolong âgé...? Si on n'a pas d'étalon or, de thé standard, on n'arrive pas à saisir cette caractéristique avec précision.

Avant de différencier les thés entre bons et mauvais, il est donc nécessaire de savoir les différencier entre exacts ou non. C'est-à-dire, le thé est-il bien ce qu'il prétend être?  
Le gaiwan en porcelaine est l'accessoire de la vérité. Son rendu neutre fait parler le thé si on a bien appris à goûter son langage. 

Ensuite, comme au saut en hauteur, on s'attaque à la qualité en plaçant la barre de plus en plus haut. Le progrès se nourrit aussi de ce que nous nous habituons rapidement à des saveurs plus élégantes. Cette exigence de qualité de plus en plus accrue est humaine et naturelle.  Chacun poursuit cette route à son rythme, selon ses envies, ses moyens, son temps, bien entendu.

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Une nouvelle saison de récolte va bientôt commencer. J'espère recevoir vos commentaires et impressions sous les articles en question afin de partager avec tous vos découvertes, vos coups de coeur. Merci d'avance.
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 J'admire la pureté et le contraste de la fine porcelaine blanche du gaiwan sur ce roc. Mais on pourrait aussi y voir la trop parfaite modernité coupée de la nature.
Le bol à émaille noire de Jianyang trouve bien plus naturellement sa place ici. Sa forme est si simple. Les variations noires et brunes ont une certaine régularité, mais pas de symétrie. Elles sont le fruit du hasard des réactions de l'émaille lors de la cuisson. Il n'y a pas deux bols semblables. Le génie de la dynastie Sung (960-1279), qui a créée ce style de bol, est d'avoir cherché un raffinement en harmonie avec la nature. Et tel était bien ce que je ressentais durant ce Cha Xi du renouveau!

Tuesday, March 6, 2012

The blue of the sky after rain, a collector's perspective

At Sotheby's, you can read a 50 pages sales pitch for a 8 to 10 million USD (estimated) Sung dynasty flower shaped bowl! (The auction will be held in Hong Kong on April 4.) This provides a good example of how a collector would look at a piece of teaware:

1. History: when was it made? Who made it? In case there is a seal under the object, it will receive a considerable amount of attention. The risk of a fake will also be discussed. Technical expertise will be needed to spot later copies.

2. Rank of the owners: Who were its past owners? And who are the present owners of similar pieces? An artifact made for an emperor carries the highest level of prestige. Nowadays, if similar pieces are owned by big musea (National Palace Museum,the Louvre...), then this add to the piece's value.   

3. Scarcity : As with almost every product, if this ware exists only in limited numbers, its value will be higher.
 
4. What makes it a masterpiece? Beyond fame and scarcity, what technical prowess or artistic element makes this ware so special? (This point is where the collector and basic perspective come closest). 

5. How was it preserved? The packaging tells us, to some extent, how much the previous owner valued his ware. (And the Japanese are masters at this art!)

6. Last but not least: Money! Purchase price, monetary value and future price increases are almost always central decision points for a collector. (I had mentioned them in the first sentence to catch your attention!)

If you liked this Ru Guanyao brush washer but can't afford it, don't despair! You can always come to Taipei's NPM or click on their website to see this top ru piece (it has no cracks). (Or you can hope that somebody asks a talented potter to make a modern reproduction of a similar Sung dynasty bowl...)

Monday, March 5, 2012

La fraicheur d'un thé vert de 6 ans!


Les bons thés n'arrêtent pas de m'épater. Ce Bi Luo Chun de Jiangsu, par exemple, a été cueilli au début avril 2006. 6 ans plus tard, conservé d'abord au frigo puis en jarre en étain, j'en retire des infusions encore toutes électriques de force et de jeunesse. Il faut toute la chaleur d'une eau juste bouillante et une théière en argent pour en extraire ses arômes les plus fins. Si les feuilles sont plus sombres et l'infusion plus orangée, les fragrances restent admirablement fleuris, printaniers et rafraichissants.

Au départ, j'avais opté pour une conservation dans la fraicheur de mon réfrigérateur, mais je constatais qu'il était difficile de garder les odeurs des autres aliments complètement à l'écart. La double ou triple protection n'était pas étanche à 100%. De plus, chaque fois que je voulais en boire, il fallait attendre que la température des feuilles remonte à la température ambiante pour éviter de la condensation de l'humidité de l'air sur les feuilles. Avec la jarre en étain, les feuilles se sont assombries en superficie, mais la fraicheur subsiste en profondeur. Il n'est donc pas étonnant de voir combien ces jarres se sont répandues au Japon, pays du thé vert! L'argent était le métal de prédilection, mais l'étain, meilleur marché et aux propriétés similaires, fut le plus populaire.

Cette soucoupe est en étain également

Friday, March 2, 2012

How to appreciate a teapot. The basic and the potter perspectives


As with Chinese calligraphy, you don't need to be Chinese a sinologist or even a tea drinker to appreciate the beauty of a teapot. An excellent article makes this point about calligraphy and this gave me the inspiration for this post. There are many levels to look at and understand a teapot. Starting with our basic perceptions is a good way to start, even for experts.

1. Basic perceptions:
Our brain perceives the world with a whole range of filters. We apply them so often and automatically that we hardly notice them anymore.

a. The sense of touch
Simply holding the teapot in our hands conveys a lot of information about the material the teapot is made from. Is it hard, porous, light, soft...? How rough is the inside of the teapot compared to the outside? How natural does it feel and how pleasant is it to hold and touch the teapot?

b. The sense of balance
Our brain is pleased and at ease when it sees something well balanced. On the contrary, if we see something unbalanced, we feel afraid it might fall and break. This makes the picture below quite disturbing to watch.
Chinese teapot makers have even come up with a water test to measure the balance of a simply designed teapot: see if the teapot floats on water. Hence the name of these teapots: shui ping hu (water balance teapots).

3-dimensional, a teapot can be looked at from various angles. A round body more or less preserves this sense of balance from wherever we look at it.  
c. Facial recognition
Quickly recognizing a friendly expression or an enemy is a basic survival instinct. Our brain is always scanning our surroundings for danger. On the other hand, one of the very first comforting shape we have all encountered is... our mother's bosom. We fed from it when we were hungry and it always came with a warm embrace. This probably explains why we feel more mellow and peaceful when we see something round, while sharp edges, rectangular shapes feel more aggressive.

If you take the spout and handle away, the basic shape of most round teapots with a curved lid and a pierced knob on top is reminiscent of a female breast. No wonder most teapot collectors are males! So, maybe there's also some sexual drive behind teapot appreciation. But I think it's still mostly relates to recognizing a comforting 'mother's bosom'.

d. Rhythm, interaction
After getting a first global impression based on the whole, our brain continues to analyze what it sees by breaking it down in smaller pieces. The teapot becomes a body, a spout, a lid with a knob and a handle. Notice how our eyes go over the teapot, stopping at the 3 focal points: the spout, the knob and the handle. How do these elements interact with each other?

2. From a potter's perspective

Knowledge of how teapots are made further helps to appreciate the skills of the teapot.

a, Shaping
Yixing clay, for instance, is flattened like a long sheet of paper and then folded into a circular shape to make the body. That's why potters will feel inside the teapot to find where the connection of both sides of the sheet of clay is made. On the outside, this connection should be made seamless. On the inside, it shouldn't really matter.  

The devil is always in the detail, so it's in the detail that we can spot makers with skill and patience. Long, thin and slightly bent walls below the lid are more difficult to make than short walls at a 90 degrees angle. This is one of the details that gives you a hint of the maker's skills.

Another small detail is the attention given to the knob. This is the central point of the teapot and a spot that will be often touched. Like the first sentence in a book, the knob should grasp the essence of the design of the whole teapot.


b. Firing
The sense of sound tells how high the temperature climbed in the kiln. The sound of the lid falling (just a couple of millimeters) on the rim of the teapot is high pitched if the clay has sufficiently hardened. But it will be low pitched if the clay was fired with a low temperature (and/or if the clay is particularly porous).

A problem with high temperatures in the kiln is deformation, so it's a big challenge to fire all pieces at the right temperature. Because another challenge is that temperature varies from place to place in traditional kilns. These variations are smaller in modern electric or gas kilns, though.


(In my next article, I will look at the appreciation of teapots from an experienced tea drinker's perspective).

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Infuser un Oolong de haute montagne en gaiwan

Ces 2 vidéos ci-dessous vous montrent comment je prépare un Oolong frais avec un gaiwan.

Première infusion


Seconde infusion


J'aurais pu infuser ces feuilles un peu plus court la seconde fois. La vidéo et mon monologue m'ont un peu distrait! Mais c'est une preuve de qualité quand un Oolong ne devient pas amer, mais simplement plus concentré. Et j'ai encore tiré deux autres infusions de ces feuilles: